What to drink with a TV dinner?

This month’s issue of Observer Food Monthly hasa special on TV dinners featuring celebrities talking about their favourite snacks. Very few beverages are mentioned so I thought I’d suggest a few pairings ;-)

Indian takeaway
Amanda Holden is pictured eating pasta with pesto but actually says her regular TV supper is an Indian takeaway. Lager would be the obvious bevvy of choice for most but personally I’d go for an IPA (India Pale Ale) or a strong fruity rosé

Spag bol
A bit of a messy TV snack from Observer restaurant critic Jay Rayner but who wouldn’t be tempted by Angela Hartnett’s 3-4 hour ragu which deserves a good bottle. Like a Chianti Classico riserva. See my 6 best pairings for spaghetti bolognese.

Fish fingers
(Or equally, fish and chips.) Mentioned by novelist Julie Myerson who also admits to enjoying a glass of Sauvignon Blanc. They’d rub along fine together but I must confess to a secret vice which is that I love fish fingers and champagne. Cava at a pinch.

Tapas
Newsreader Mark Austin says he likes tapas and a glass of wine (unspecified though I suspect it might be a Rioja). He should try a well-chilled glass of fino or manzanilla sherry. See also my 6 best Spanish wines to try with tapas.

Cheese on toast
We also don’t know what wine his colleague Julie Etchingham drinks with her cheese on toast made with “strong cheddar, always with Worcestershire sauce” Could quaff a Cabernet but I’d personally be reaching for a bottle of Timothy Taylor Landlord.

Home-made burgers
The fondly remembered childhood treat of X Factor presenter Dermot O’Leary. Adults should try them with a good bottle of Bordeaux: as fine a match with a burger as a steak - provided you don’t overdo the relish.

Chips
Perfect TV food, according to the BBC’s Alan Yentob - and he should know. Personally I think this is beer food again. Or a mug of builder’s tea, which would certainly be a good match for his other favoured snack, fried-egg sandwiches . . .

Fish pie
Mentioned by Property Ladder’s Sarah Beeny. Her version, which includes smoked haddock and a cheesy sauce, is quite rich which would make me reach for a fairly full-bodied (but not ridiculously oaky) Chardonnay. See also my 4 top drink pairings for fish pie.

Image credit: Andres Ayrton

Pairing wine and Indian seafood

Indian seafood dishes showcase a rich variety of flavors, from creamy coconut-based curries to smoky tandoori preparations and fiery regional specialties. Pairing wine with these dishes can be tricky due to the interplay of spice, acidity, and umami, but the right wine can elevate the experience. Here are 10 popular Indian seafood dishes with wine pairing suggestions to help you find the perfect match:

Goan Fish Curry (Xitti Kodi)

A tangy and spicy coconut-based curry with tamarind and red chilies.
Wine Pairing: Off-dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer – the slight sweetness balances the heat and complements the coconut.

Meen Moilee (Kerala Fish Curry)

A mild, coconut milk-based curry with mustard seeds and curry leaves.
Wine Pairing: Aromatic Viognier or Chenin Blanc – both work well with the creamy texture and delicate spices.

Machher Jhol (Bengali Fish Curry)

A mustard-infused fish curry with turmeric and potatoes.
Wine Pairing: A crisp Sauvignon Blanc or Albariño to cut through the mustard’s pungency.

Tandoori Prawns

Jumbo prawns marinated in yogurt, garlic, and spices, then roasted in a tandoor.
Wine Pairing: A lightly oaked Chardonnay or dry Rosé – both complement the smoky, charred flavors.

Fish Tikka

Boneless fish chunks marinated in mustard oil and spices, then grilled.
Wine Pairing: Medium-bodied Pinot Noir or Grenache – light enough for fish, but with enough structure for the spices.

Bombil Fry (Bombay Duck Fry)

Crispy, deep-fried Bombay duck (a soft fish) from Mumbai.
Wine Pairing: Sparkling wine (e.g., Brut Prosecco or Champagne) – the acidity and bubbles cut through the fried richness.

7. Karimeen Pollichathu

Pearl spot fish wrapped in banana leaves and grilled with a spicy marinade.
Wine Pairing: Grüner Veltliner or Fiano – both have fresh acidity and subtle spiciness to match the dish.

Patrani Machhi

A Parsi dish where fish is steamed in banana leaves with coconut and coriander chutney.
Wine Pairing: Vermentino or Sancerre – bright, citrusy, and perfect with herbaceous flavors.

Hilsa Paturi

Hilsa fish wrapped in mustard paste and banana leaves, then steamed.
Wine Pairing: Chablis or Sauvignon Blanc – high acidity to contrast the mustard’s intensity.

Sungta Sukka (Mangalorean Spicy Prawns)

A dry prawn dish cooked with coconut, tamarind, and red chilies.
Wine Pairing: Off-dry Rosé or Zinfandel – both balance the heat while enhancing the dish’s bold flavors.

See also my six drinks you might not thought of pairing with Indian food. 

A story from a food and wine tasting at Trishna in London

This story was originally published in March 2009.

It’s less common to come across Indian-spiced seafood dishes than it is fish and vegetable-based ones so what sort of wine works? Yesterday I had a chance to find out.

The meal was at Trishna, London’s latest high-end Indian restaurant which specialises in seafood. It’s an interesting venue which I’ll write about separately but for now I want to concentrate on the pairings which were devised by their Austrian general manager and sommelier Leo Kiem.

Each dish on the menu comes with an accompanying wine and/or beer. On the whole the pairings were very successful and even those that missed the mark (in my opinion) were interesting.

Squid with spiced rice flour, lime zest and chilli
A version of salt and pepper squid with a very light rice flour batter. Despite the description it wasn’t too spicy - you could really taste the squid The conventional pairing would have been a champagne or sparkling wine but the smooth dry Rotgipfler from Reinisch in Austria’s Thermenregion Kiem had chosen worked perfectly.

Hariyali Bream, mint coriander and green chilli masala, charred tomato kachumber
My favourite dish and my joint favourite pairing. A marvellous dish of grilled bream that had been smothered in a coriander-based wet paste, served with spiced cherry tomatoes - a quite unpredictable pairing with a very attractive crisp Dr Burklin-Wolf Riesling 2007 (It was probably the herby paste that made the wine kick in)

Isle of Wight Plaice, fried with coastal spices served with crushed pea and mint
A great indian riff on fried fish and mushy peas. Slightly less subtle than the other dishes with the odd effect of making the accompanying 2004 Pinot Blanc Auxerrois Vielles Vignes from Domaine Schoffit in Alsace taste slightly sweet. Something like an Alto Adige Pinot Grigio would have been marginally better I felt. (The accompanying peas by the way were wonderful)

Isle of Shuna Mussels simmered in a coconut and turmeric masala
Kiem brought out a biodynamic Chasselas from Alsace with this dish which I didn’t think worked. It was too funky - almost slightly sherried in character. I’m not sure what I would have matched with this - the coconut flavour was quite pronounced. Possibly an Alsace Pinot Gris or a Viognier though I liked the idea of an Erdinger weiss bier which is also an option. (The current pairing is a 2008 Chenin Blanc from Sula Vineyards in Nashik, India)

Cornish brown crab with butter, pepper & garlic
We tried this as an extra as it was one of their signature dishes. It was fantastic - and fantastically rich - swimming in butter. It was a bold move to pair it with a heavyweight Argentian red a 2005 Cuvelier Los Andes ‘Collecion’ and I didn’t feel it worked which isn’t to say that another less tannic red wouldn’t have fared better - possibly a Merlot. Personally though I’d have gone for a barrel-fermented Chardonnay.

We also tried a couple of desserts which also proved great foils for the accompanying sweet wines

Mango Kheer - Mango rice pudding with a sweet chilli coulis
Already a candidate for one of my pairings of the year with a glass of 2003 Chateau Filhot, Sauternes. A wonderful idea mixing fresh mango puree with warm, gently spiced rice pudding and it showed off the Sauternes in all its luscious glory. One of those pairings that’s more than the sum of its parts.

Carrot halwa with pistachio ice cream
An adventurous dessert - subtly spiced but not very sweet which allowed the accompanying citrussy 2007 Iona Noble Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc from the Elgin region of South Africa to really shine.

Image credit: Asit Naskar

Matching cold cuts, cheese and chutney

A couple of years ago I went to a chutney-making demonstration and tasting. No, not at the WI - it was held by the family owned company Tracklements at leading London cheesemonger La Fromagerie which has recently expanded its empire into the neighbouring shop and now has a fancy new tasting room.

Guy Tullberg of Tracklements gave a fascinating account of how pickles differed from chutneys and relishes (in essence you cook the former and simply boil boiling liquid over the latter. Pickles are veg-based, chutneys can include fruit) but the highlight of the event was a tasting of different styles of relish with cold meats and cheeses.

It was an interesting reminder of the important role these traditional preserves play in livening up a simple meal but also forcibly reminded me of the problem that pickles and chutneys pose for wine - I could only think of a couple of pairings where I’d wouldn’t have preferred a beer or a cider.

Here were the combinations and my suggested pairings:

Classic English Pork Pie and Piccalilli
English pork pies, for those of you who are not familiar with them are classic pub fare with a hot water crust and faintly peppery filling. The sharp mustardy piccalilli which contains tumeric and other spices cut perfectly through the heavy pastry and fattiness of the meat.
Suggested match: a strong English ale such as Timothy Taylor Landlord

Cold ham and Farmhouse pickle
A sweet, fruity Branston-style pickle made with carrot, courgette, turnip and onion with dark muscovado sugar, tamarind and dates which added a nice edge to some smoky, thick-cut ham.
Suggested match: Maybe because of the smoky note in the ham but I liked the idea of a porter with this.

Curried fruit chutney and chicken
A spicy but not overly hot chutney based on tomatoes, apples and dates spiced with fenugreek, coriander, cumin and cardamom. Sweet and rich. Slightly overwhelmed the accompanying chicken but apparently makes a great Coronation Chicken.
Suggested drink match: With these spices I’d enjoy an Indian Pale Ale. Also quite good with the Breton farmhouse cider that was laid on.

Apricot and ginger chutney with farmhouse Cheshire
A mild crumbly cheese with a mellow, sweet chutney. The chutney enlivens what would otherwise be a slightly bland taste experience
Suggested drink match: one of the only chutneys that wouldn’t have overwhelmed an accompanying wine. A Spanish tempranillo or garnacha, I thought

Apple and Cider Brandy chutney with Camembert
I didn’t think this combination worked. The chutney with its spicy mince-pie like flavours was too powerful for the cheese. It would have been better with a strong cheddar and I’d have preferred the Camembert with some kind of berry compote.
Suggested drink match: The accompanying cider was stripped of flavour by the chutney. You really needed something like an apple aperitif or digestif such as Somerset Pomona or Pommeau

Fig Relish and Goats Cheese
Guy Tullberg said that this combination was well received by people who didn’t like goats cheese. I can see why - with its powerful cinnamon, clove and allspice notes it cancels out the taste. I think it might work in a hot tartlet though using fig relish as a base and a slice of goats cheese on top. Apparently this is their most successful product.
Suggested drink match: Guy suggested Pedro Ximenez but for me that’s too powerful for goats’ cheese. A sweet oloroso maybe.

Montgomery’s cheddar with organic plum chutney
This combination of award-winning artisanal cheese and a sharp, zesty plum chutney with a touch of orange was perfect - but lethal to wine!
Suggested drink match: A strong British ale such as Adnams Broadside

Sausage roll and onion marmalade
Sausages and caramelised onions are a match made in heaven. This was an unusually sweet, concentrated version that would go as well with hot sausages as cold.
Suggested drink match: an English bitter or could possibly take a gutsy southern French red such as a Cotes du Rhone Villages

Wholemeal bread and butter with cucumber pickle
A very mild sweet cucumber pickle - like an old-fashioned sandwich spread. Nice but not spectacular with the bread and butter. Would be better with a burger - it makes a fantastic barbecue relish
Suggested drink match: Again not too powerful to accompany wine - I’d suggested a ripe soft red like a Merlot or, possibly even better, a fruity New World rosé. Cider would be good too.

The important point to bear in mind is that sharp pickles will make an accompanying drink taste sweeter and less bitter and a sweet one will make it sharper. It’s the combination of sweet and sour that’s the problem

Photo by Nicolas Postiglioni

How to organise a beer and cheese tasting

Today my son Will and I did an artisan cheese and craft beer tasting at the Great British Beer Festival to promote our new book An Appetite for Ale (due out at the end of September. Hint.) It seemed to go down well so I thought it might be something you’d enjoy trying at home with your friends.

What we were aiming to show was not only how good beer is with cheese but to come up with some unexpected pairings that might impress any non-beer drinkers in the party. Here’s what we tasted and why.

Goats’ cheese and wheat beer
An ideal pairing to kick off this kind of tasting, both goats cheese and wheatbeer are very versatile, ideal for this time of year. The goats’ cheese was a Golden Cross from Sussex - a goats’ cheese log that was quite well matured and the beer a bière blanche called Colomba from Corsica flavoured with the wild plants of the Corsican Maquis (densely wooded hillsides). The lemony herbal notes of the beer picked up perfectly on the slightly acid cheese. It’s a style of beer I really like to drink with goats’ cheese salads. Any witbier or bière blanche would work equally well.

Camembert and Kriek
Kriek is the famous sour Belgian fruit beer made with cherries. We used Liefman’s for the tasting which has a particularly refreshing sour (but not sharp) cherry flavour. The Camembert we paired it with was an artisanal cheese from Normandy, again well-matured which meant that the rind was a little bitter for the beer. A younger example would have been a better match. The fresh fruity flavours of the beer are a great contrast to the creamy paste (the central part of the cheese).

Cheddar and American IPA
Cheddar is generally paired with pale ales or bitters in this country but they can get overwhelmed if the cheese is very strong. This was the case with this award-winning unpasteurised Montgomery’s cheddar from Somerset which was about 14 months old. I like this style of cheese better with an American IPA which are stronger, sweeter and more hoppy than their typical British counterparts. The one we used at the tasting was a great favourite of Will’s and mine, Goose Island. We were amused to see on their website that they also recommend it with Cajun food and carrot cake!

Washed rind cheese and strong Belgian Trappist ale
A classic pairing from Belgium. The beer we used was Chimay Blue which at 9% is the strongest beer in the Chimay range. The monks also make a washed rind style of cheese but we chose a British example from Gloucestershire, Stinking Bishop from Charles Martell. So called not because of its odour (which has been compared to unwashed socks) but because the rind of the cheese is washed with perry made from the Stinking Bishop pear. It’s the kind of cheese-lovers’ cheese which totally annihilates red wine but the sweet, strong Chimay more than held its own. You could also try it with a French cheese like Epoisses or Livarot.

Stilton and porter
The first of two pairings with Stilton. This, on the face of it was the more unlikely combination. Anchor Porterfrom San Francisco with its dark, bitter flavour of coffee grounds and mature Colston Bassett, one of the most highly regarded Stiltons, the kind of cheese with which you’d normally reach for the port. But in fact the two got on like a house on fire, the bitterness of the blue-veined cheese rounding out the flavours of the beer, the beer providing a refreshing contrast to the cheese. They looked great together too. Magic.

Stilton and Barley Wine
With the same cheese we then put up a barley wine, a Thomas Hardy Ale from O’Hanlons of Devon. At a stonking 11.7% it’s not for the fainthearted - wonderfully rich and sweet with intense dried fruit flavours. The brewer says it will keep for 25 years. It behaved much more like a port with the cheese, providing a rich, sweet contrast. Personally I would have liked some kind of dried fruits like raisins or Medjool dates to nibble with the combination but it was pretty good on its own.

When we asked the audience which beer they preferred with the Stilton about 60% preferred the porter and 40% the barley wine so which way you go is a question of personal taste.

We finished off the tasting (and you could finish off your evening) by showing how well three of the beers also went with desserts, partnering the Kriek with a creamy cheesecake (one of my favourite pairings), the porterwith a70% dark organic chocolate (which it offset like an espresso coffee) and the barley wine with a classic English fruitcake. The last two were uncannily alike but the great thing about beer is that its palate-refreshing carbonation enables you to partner it with a similar ingredient without one cancelling out the flavour of the other.

The Great British Beer Festival is on at Earl’s Court until Saturday evening. Visit www.gbbf.org.uk

Image by Orna from Pixabay